Chenini, Tunisia: The Iconic Hilltop White Mosque Village
High in the rugged hills of southern Tunisia, where the Sahara begins to stir and the sky stretches endlessly, sits the ancient Berber village of Chenini.
The heart of Chenini is the old, semi-abandoned Berber village, carved into and built upon the rocky hillside. Many homes were originally troglodyte dwellings—partly dug into the rock for insulation against the desert heat. Here you can wander the stone alleyways and see some of the abandoned cave-dwellings. Some are still in use as homes still.
The parking is midway up from the valley floor so there’s still a short 15-20 minutes of easy climbing needed to be done. If needed, know that there is a small shop at the top that can offer you refreshments or tea after the climb.
Seeing this site reminded us of some of the fortresses in Bundi, India. Or could also be like Chittorgarh Fort minus all the detailed structures.
There’s just something about the desert life that draws you in.
Going up the right side of the hill, you’ll find some of the abandoned ksour and villas. Some are boarded up and still in use.
And for the most part, even though there were many tour buses, we were exploring the place all to ourselves.
One point for the Tunisian Foreign Travel Ministry is that they should implement a small parking fee for tourist cars and buses and that fund go towards revival of the original Berber population who still lives nearby. Or they could implement a fixed guide fee so that visitors know the exact amount and what a tour would include before setting off with a stranger. Just a side note…
There’s nothing else around this town, so the open desert landscape gives a sense of awe and wonder and also a sense of peace.
Here you can purchase some locally made carpets. You’ll likely get a normal price for the amount of work it takes – maybe starts at around $40 USD or $120 TND. We had gotten a rug at La Belle Vue near Toujaine (Toujane) and according to our local homestay owner in Oued El Khil, we got a good price and it was actually made by some women from that village.
Tunisia also has some of the most beautiful crafts work, so I would be prepared to pick up some items that require delicate handling. Don’t let that deter you from buying and supporting them.
As remarkable as this place is, there’s no entrance fee. However be prepared for a little bit of hiking on uneven paths. Some good shoes, some water, and a hat/sunscreen would help. Also don’t forget sunglasses as the sun is quite harsh.
As with many places in Tunisia, everywhere you point your camera, there’s a good view.
It was worth of an Instax Camera pic as well. I carry this almost everywhere I go when travelling and all the photos come out so well, especially at the most premier sites.
And I can’t forget about the iconic white mosque. It’s the big draw here as it calls to those wandering the desert from so far away, creating a sense of peace and something spiritual in the air.
Some nearby sites to explore while you’re in the area:
Ksar Ouled Soltane – the best and most iconic Ksar in the region. About a 40 minute drive away.
Tatouine – the famous Starwars town, although there isn’t many of the film’s sites in the city. This is a good place to stop and have some local Tunisian food or drinks. Also shopping here in the south will allow you to buy some reasonably priced souvenirs.
Guermassa – this is a larger abandoned village that warrants a visit if you have the time. In fact, the guidebook recommends this and praises highly of how stunning of a site it is.
Visiting Chenini was another highlight of our trip to Tunisia. Be sure to plan a stop as part of your trip.
Location:
Chenini is a short 20 minutes drive away from major towns like Tatouine. You’ll likely want to have a rental car and drive there unless you join on a major tour bus journey, which can be nice too.
We were in the small village of Oued El Khil the night before and left in the morning, which was an hours drive through the desert. On that route, you can hit Guermassa, which is a huge Berber village. Worth the stop if you have time. We made a quick stop at Ksar el Ferich, which is another famous Ksar, although there is not much around it.
The road signs will guide you, although having a SIM card and using GPS can save you from the occasional missed turn on a roundabout.
More Posts Here:
Our Exact Trip and Itinerary: Two Weeks in Tunisia
Explore the whole country: Your Travel Guide to Tunisia
Explore the South of Tunisia: A Visit to the Sahara and Dahar region.